Over the weekend, bespoke shoemaker Nicholas Templeman came into San Francisco as part of his US trunk show tour. Nicholas typically wears sport coats and dress shoes for his trunk shows, but during his off hours, he dresses pretty casually (e.g., sneakers, jeans, and t-shirts). Before we left his hotel to grab dinner, he said to me: “Oh, I have to show you this new leather jacket I bought.” He reached into his closet and pulled out this squid-black cafe racer made from a thick horsehide leather. It was Aero’s Board Racer.

No leather jacket will do everything, but cafe racers such as Aero’s Board Racer come close. The style was originally worn in the early- to mid-20th century as a part of a competitive motorcyclist’s kit. Racecourses at the time were made from wooden planks, which had a tendency to get slick from motor oil. So, for protection, racers wore form-fitting, unlined, leather racing shirts. Those styles eventually metamorphized into Buco’s J-100, arguably the best-known moto style outside of Schott’s Perfecto. The cafe racer is also one of the easiest leather jacket styles to wear — and the Aero Board Racer has become a reference model.

Aero Leather has become popular in the repro community for their tough build, classic styles, and quality materials. The company was started by a young DJ named Ken Calder who, in the 1960s, was doing the light shows at London’s Marquee Club (known as one of the most important venues in rock music history, where bands such as The Rolling Stones, Led Zepplin, and The Who got their start). To supplement his income, Calder bought second-hand jeans from an American contact stationed at a nearby US Air Force base. He’d then repaired those jeans at home before selling them to fashionable Mods. From there, Calder learned how to sew and eventually opened a tiny custom clothing shop in Kensington Market. Using his contact list from his days at The Marquee Club, he built a clientele of rock musicians who needed custom clothes for stage performances. Many of those clothes were in the outlandish styles characteristic of the Swinging Sixties (Clader, for example, produced Elton John’s star-motif platform boots).

https://www.instagram.com/p/BwJfKpKhVUz/

At his heart, however, Calder has always been a vintage clothing enthusiast. He grew tired of making wilder clothing styles, so he closed his Kensington store, took a break, and opened The Thrift Shop, a large vintage clothing boutique that operated on a “pile it high, sell it cheap” philosophy. “In 1976, a men’s vintage shop in London was as rare as rocking horse droppings,” Calder once said in an interview. “They’d all folded after the Gold Rush days of the late 1960s, so we virtually had the market to ourselves for at least the first few years.”

The Thrift Shop operated in the same way many low-end vintage dealers do today. They bought bales of vintage clothing, sorted out the best stuff, and then found customers for repaired goods. It didn’t take long for Calder to find out that the largest profit margin was to be had in Grade 3 bales — vintage, American military leathers with ripped linings, burst seam, and broken zippers. He bought, repaired, and sold as many of those as he could. However, the vintage market being what it is, Calder found that he couldn’t get all the sizes he needed for in-demand pieces such as the A-2. So, he created his repro brand Aero in 1984. This is, essentially, the same story of how many Japanese brands got their start. Squeezed by a tight and expensive vintage market for Americana and workwear, they decided to just make the stuff on their own as historically accurate as possible.

Aero’s commitment to historically accurate and tough-as-nails construction has made them popular with workwear and denim enthusiasts, particularly on boards such as DenimBro and The Fedora Lounge, as well as niche Japanese markets. In an interview with Almost Vintage, Calder said:

All our techniques are reverse engineering. We are one of a very small number in our genre using truly traditional, pre-WW2 US construction methods. This means never gluing or skiving the leather on the seams. Gluing and skiving helps with sewing, but they detract from durability. We even hand sew all our buttons for appearance and strength.

In my way of thinking, skiving leather is a way to cheat a buyer. Sure, shaving some of the thickness of the leather makes it easier to sew, and it gives the seam a flatter, neater appearance. This is especialy true at the head of a sleeve or coming off a bi-swing back. But when you skive the leather, it comes at the cost of durability. A 1.2 hide is a fairly substantial leather. I’d imagine anyone buying leather of that weight and thickness expects the leather at the main stress points to be 1.2, not a lot thinner because the seam areas had been skived to 0.6 or 0-7.

Gluing seams is also very popular among Japanese makers. It helps with neater stitching, but sadly it makes the jacket nearly  impossible to unpick or repair when the seams become broken. Similarly, gluing the front edges alongside the zipper makes is easier to do a neat topstitch, but then it also becomes difficult to replace a broken zipper. If the topstitch is too small, that job goes from extremely difficult to impossible. An Aero jacket is put together in exactly the same way as the ones I repaired back in the late ‘70s, very few of these original jackets would have survived had they been glued and skived like so many of the current offering by others in this field.

(Perhaps notably, most leather goods, including high-end leather shoes, are skived at the seam to give them a neater, flatter appearance. Unless you’re unusually hard on your clothes, you should be able to get decades out of a leather jacket regardless if the seams have been skived, although Calder’s technique is nice if you appreciate the appearance of a tougher leather jacket).

The majority of Aero’s styles are too repro for most PTO readers. They’re modeled after classic early- to mid-century styles, often historically correct in both pattern and make, which means they look best with other kinds of period correct clothing. Their Board Racer, however, is unique in that it neatly fits into most lifestyles. It’s a rugged jacket without the heavy-handedness of a Schott Perfecto. It’s contemporary but not fashion forward. In the right outfit, it can look very modern — with a t-shirt, slim jeans, and side-zip boots. But it’s also a classic style that you can wear for years to come.

In the United States, Aero is distributed through the Seattle-based shop  Thurston Brothers. They do both ready-to-wear and custom leather jackets. The process is pretty simple. They have a collection of jackets that they sell directly to customers or use for fitting purposes. That means that, when you order, you’re sent a ready-made jacket as a try-on piece. If you like the jacket as-is, you keep it. Otherwise, Thurston offers a range of customization options, including changing out the leather or adjusting the fit (about 80% of their orders are custom).

Most customers order the Board Racer in Vincenza horsehide, which is a thick and robust leather with an unusually rich color. Horween’s pull-up Chromexcel leather trails at a distant second place. Thurston recommends sticking with a mid-weight leather since the Board Racer is designed to sit so close to the body, although they’re happy to send out sample swatches along with every fitting jacket so you can handle their leathers in-person. Nicholas Templeman had his made from a black front-quarters horsehide. “The first day, I was walking around like a stiff robot, but it’s since broken in pretty nicely,” he said.

Here’s the catch: Since heavy leather jackets are expensive to ship and Thurston is a small business, they don’t allow for refunds. When you order a Board Racer, you’ll get a fitting jacket and some sample swatches. That should allow you to customize your jacket, both in terms of fit and styling, to suit whatever you need. However, if you find the Board Racer style isn’t for you, they’ll only allow you to use your credit towards another purchase, not exit out of the ordering system entirely. On the upside, they have other handsome styles: a simpler cafe racer (a closer repro of the original Buco J-100), Type III trucker jacket, and a range of bombers. I think the Board Racer is the best of the bunch. The jacket wears like a hard shell, which means the stiff leather and V-shaped silhouette gives you the appearance of a more athletic figure. If you’re looking for a rugged leather jacket that you can easily wear with jeans, Aero’s Board Racer is worth your consideration.

The post Aero’s Board Racer, A Leather Jacket For Almost Anyone appeared first on Put This On.

What could possibly be more British than showing up to a colonial war in a Barbour jacket? As a brand Barbour’s rich history and hype is linked to Britain’s wars. During the Second World War Barbour created the Ursula Suit, a custom made waterproofed suit for Lieutenant Commander George Phillips the commander of the submarine HMS Ursula. In a testament to Barbour’s design and craftsmanship, the Ursula Suit would become standard issue clothing for British submariners and in later years, become a holy grail for vintage menswear heads, placing it at the center of the military and heritage brand vibes. But of course, the British Military’s obsession with waxed cotton didn’t stop there.

Fast forward to 1982. For reasons far too complicated to get into on a website about clothes, the military junta that controlled Argentina invades the sparsely populated Falkland Islands in the South Atlantic. Much to the surprise of the Argentinians –– and most British –– a task force of British sailors, soldiers, and Royal Marines were hastily sent the nearly 9,000 miles to the South Atlantic to retake the islands. If you are more interested in this bizarre conflict pick up Max Hastings’ and Simon Jenkins’ The Battle for the Falklands.

What concerns us here is how Barbour jackets figured into this aberration of a conflict on the windswept and bitterly cold islands in the South Atlantic. If WWII uniforms are the domain of vintage bros and denim heads, the Falklands War belongs wholly to Gorpcore sans Gore-Tex. The British Military that steamed down to the South Atlantic was a force of professionals and arguably the first military of a developed country to enter a campaign with access to an abundance of civilian camping and outdoor gear. In 1982, the British military was still using non-breathable fabrics to fend off water. These stiff plastic foul weather suits were disparagingly referred to as “crisp packet” waterproofs. Enter the ubiquitous staple of English menswear – the Barbour jacket.

(above: A group of British soldiers during the Falklands War show the British issue quilted liner jackets. Also Captain Cotton and details of his Barbour Durham jacket).

Captain Cotton’s jackets

The windproof, waterproof, breathable, light, and smart appearance of the Barbour made it ideal for soldiers and Royal Marines tasked with yomping across the Falklands in the southern-hemisphere winter of 1982. Barbour has leaned into their usage during the conflict with a few collaboration jackets from the likes of Engineered Garments and Tokihito Yoshida taking direct inspiration from Barbour jackets customized for British Military officers. According to Bulang & Sons (and the Adidas collaboration) Captain Cotton’s lightweight and modifiedBarbour Durham served as the inspiration for the new designs. From Bulang & Sons:

The archive piece was worn by Captain Mick Cotton in the Falklands war [sic] and was customized by Barbour for Captain Cotton to use in the conflict. Capt Cotton served in the 2nd Battalion The Parachute Regiment (2 Para). Whilst not official army issue, troops were often seen in the field wearing Barbour coats. Barbour used a Durham jacket and added a number of pockets, D-rings and arm pouches to give the coat the additional storage options and make it more useful for combat situations.

While Captain Cotton’s Jacket is a handsome piece of kit, it is apparent that his Barbour Durham was never anywhere near the Falklands War. It is a simple giveaway, there are two too many Royal Warrants on the inside. As you can see from the photos, there are three Royal Warrants on the jacket, placing its date of production to after 1987. Another jacket in the Barbour archive is Captain Cotton’s modified Gamefair jacket. This jacket, according to the Barbour, was also one of the jackets that Captain Cotton took to the Falklands War and gave to Barbour for their archive. While still modified, the Captain Cotton Gamefair is not nearly as “tactical” and without pictures of the label, you are unable to properly date the jacket. The chest rank tab (on the placket) does come across as a hallmark of a post-Falklands modification.

(above: A Royal Marine wearing a Barbour Durham)

Durham and The Solway Zipper Jackets

Capt. Cotton’s Barbour is the only customized jacket we have found from the conflict, many other soldiers and Royal Marines packed a Barbour away in their rucksacks. But, they were still a rare sight. Paul Hannon has been collecting uniforms and equipment from the Falklands War since 1982, points out “I’d say the use of Barbour jackets in 1982 has been a little exaggerated and was often restricted to those with deeper pockets as they were expensive item back then.”

Barbour jackets did certainly make their way to the South Atlantic, but not in abundant numbers or in the highly customized variety – as these pictures show. Writing in The Yompers: With 45 Commando in the Falklands War, Ian Gardner mentions the waxed cotton jackets:

We were, in the main, adequately equipped for our foray into this demanding environment … Even so many men had supplemented their equipment with private purchases of gloves, bungees, gaiters, sleeping bags and Barbour jackets.

Photos from the war back this foxhole fashion up. Barbour Durham and Solway Zipper Jackets crop up, mostly among the Royal Marines. The Durham’s are easy to spot with their distinctive vest-like shoulder construction. “The unlined Durham was popular as it it could be rolled up tightly and would easily fit into a pouch or rucksack,” says Hannon. Even before the conflict Barbour would produce a jacket in full British Army DPM camouflage print for military use before lighter and synthetic options became available (these have been riffed on quite a bit by later Barbour collaborations), but there is no evidence of them being used during the war.

Durham and The Solway Zipper (which is seen in photos as well) jackets are lightweight by Barbour standards and unlined. An odd choice at first blush for the nearly antarctic war. But what soldiers and Royal Marines needed wasn’t an extra layer for warmth, but rather a lightweight layer capable of stopping every present and strong winds and seemingly unrelenting dampness. These jackets could be easily stowed away and broken out when needed and layered over copious layers.

(above: The Captain Cotton Barbour Durham jacket from the Barbour archive, note the three Royal Warrants, and two Barbour x To Ki To jackets)

Modern Take

Barbours, especially the Bedales and Beauforts, can seem a bit stuffy, old money in the wrong way, preppy, finance bro who stepped into a J. Crew between 2010 and 2015. But it doesn’t have to scream Sloane Ranger or “heritage brand guy.” The jackets that were popular with troops during the Falklands are less sought after models. The Durham is still available and for quite a bit less than its heavier brethren. The Solway Zipper Jacket and Gamefair have to be sourced on the vintage market as both ceased being made in 1997 – though the Gamefair seems to have been remade in 2010. Of course, you can also always go the Barbour x Tokihito Yoshida F/W 2010 or the Barbour x Engineered Garments AW 2018 if you want to splurge.

With one of these, simply follow one of the menswear mantras, “layer, layer, layer” and pair with a rough and tumble military quilted liners or vests. The British models are still easy to come by and offer a different look from pedestrian American liner jacket style. Camouflage is still having a bit of a fashion moment, so Instead of raw denim (J. Crew catalog) or corduroy (Sloane Ranger), throw on some camo pants, the weirder the better. If you are a purist, go for some early British DPM camouflage that was worn during the conflict. These can still be hunted down on eBay or eBay.co.uk. For those only lukewarm on camouflage, consider something a little more subtle, like a British military scrim scarf.

(above: Two Royal Marines in the Falklands War. The one on the right wears a Barbour Solway Zipper jacket.)

(above: Major Ewen Southby Taylor at Ajax Bay. Major Southby Taylor was a larger then life character in the Falklands War and commanded the Landing Craft Assault Squadrons. Here he is seen what appears to be a waxed cotton Barbour jacket.)

(above: Captain Cotton’s Gamefair jacket in the Barbour archive.)

(above: 2 Troop 59 of 59 Independent Commando Squadron RE on Mt. Kent. The marine in the middle appears to be wearing a Barbour Durham.)

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Filson’s 256 is still a solid choice if you’re looking for a briefcase. Its popularity has inspired tons of similar designs, but there’s something iconic about the original (much like original Barbours). It retails for $325, but is easy to find on sale at about 25% off. If you’re looking to buy one, Filson Fan has a good comparison of the 256 against the larger 257 (tip: get the 256).

Like many guys these days, I find I’m slightly more interested in offbeat takes on classics than true classics themselves. And recently, I picked up this South2West8 painter bag, which feels like the Filson 256 on psychedelics.

South2West8 is one of the lines operating under the umbrella company Nepenthes, a boutique retailer with several locations around Japan, as well as New York City’s garment district. As a shop, they carry choice labels such as Gitman Brothers and Rough & Tumble. They also have a family line of in-house brands, which includes Needles, Needles Sportswear, Engineered Garments, FWK by Engineered Garments, EG Workaday, and South2West8.

These labels are known for their creative takes on workwear and adventuring gear. They have slightly strange silhouettes, no-good-reason pockets, and at times senselessly patched together constructions. The clothes are weird, but not so weird to stray from a more classic look, and they’re relatively easy to wear with something as simple as slim-straight jeans and sneakers. They fit into that “reworked classic casualwear” category we talked about a few weeks ago.

South2West8’s painter bag is great for these sorts of wardrobes. It’s made from a tan cotton canvas — plain weave, instead of twill, but a branded fabric called Sunforager that claims to be water resistant (not as much as Filson’s, I’d say, but good enough for normal rainy days). It has two outer pockets — a large zippered one to carry things such as computer chargers, then a side pocket for a water bottle. The cleverly designed straps allow you to carry this by hand or on your shoulder, like Filson’s, or even use it as a backpack (kind of goofy looking, but the option is there).

Best of all is the price. For a bag that’s designed by a Japanese company and then made in the USA, I was surprised to find this is only $152 shipped. You can barely get a button-up in a fancy boutique nowadays for that kind of money. One of the employees at Nepenthes tells me they’re able to get good prices because the bags are shipped directly to the NYC store from the US factory, which means customers don’t have to shoulder the cost of international shipping and duties. That explains why this same bag is more expensive in Japan, whereas their Japanese-made outerwear is pricier in the US.

The bag isn’t perfect. I wish the stitching was a little better and finer. Sometimes companies lower the stitch count like this because it saves them on time and money, but in doing so, the resulting item can look a bit rough. The leather also isn’t as thick and sturdy as Filson’s, and the interior compartment could really use some organizational pockets. It’s basically a tote bag with some clever straps and two outer pockets, but it’s light on the wallet and looks very cool.

To order, you’ll have to call or stop by the Nepenthes store in NYC. They also have other South2West8 bags, such as the La Crosse briefcase for $208. The construction on these could be a little better, but they’re less ubiquitous and fun to use. If you’re feeling tired of that Filson, you might as well have a West (sorry, I couldn’t help myself).

Nepenthes NYC

307 West 38th St. storefront #10

New York, NY 10018

(212) 643-9540

shop@nepenthesny.com

The post This Japanese Painter Bag Is The New Filson 256 appeared first on Put This On.

That said, I’ve found I often reach of the same types of shoes everyday, and I’d like to think my lifestyle is a teensy–weensy more relatable than Prince’s. And in my time reading menswear blogs and forums, it seems many guys find these same styles useful too. I wouldn’t say they’re essentials — the best essentials, again, are found through trial-and-error. However, if you’re just building a wardrobe, here are five styles that have worked for me. Maybe they’ll also work for you.

A Pair of Proper Dress Shoes: Norwegian Split Toes

The only real wardrobe essential we stand by is a sincere suit, which also means you need its accouterments: a white dress shirt, dark silk tie, and a pair of proper dress shoes. Unless you wear a suit every day, however, you probably want to make those dress shoes derbies. Oxfords are too formal for sport coats and trousers — even worse with jeans. Derbies, on the other hand, span the gamut. They can be worn with tweeds and flannels; denim and knitwear; and (most) suits and ties. They don’t look as sexy, but I find them infinitely more practical.

When it comes to derbies, none make my heart pitter patter as much as the Norwegian split toe. It’s true they can look a bit taxidermic. And if done poorly, an elongated toe seam can even seem phallic. When everything comes together well, however, nothing looks as good to me. Wingtips are too common; cap toes too plain. Norwegian split toes plant your feet in the ground and say you like something a little different.

Style enthusiasts often consider Edward Green’s Dover to be the Platonic ideal, but it’s tremendously expensive. If you have this kind of money to spend, John Lobb’s Harlyn is also terrific. Both have those handsewn piecrust aprons and subtle toe seams that I think make this style look its best.

For something more affordable, check into Alden, Carmina, and Crockett & Jones. The last one has a slightly sportier style called the Durham, which rides the line between tailored clothing and casualwear, making it a bit more versatile. Enzo Bonafe and Vass offer handwelted split toes; Meermin and Carlos Santos are solid budget-friendly options; and Paraboot’s Avignon is good if you want something distinctly casual (too informal for suits, but a solid choice with denim).

Something Smart Casual: Penny Loafers

The penny loafer was the sine qua non of the post-war Ivy Look. Often worn with Shetland sweaters, flat front chinos, and tweed sport coats, they were the choice of Ivy League students across the East Coast, later finding broader appeal through Esquire. More than being an Ivy shoe, however, penny loafers embody the kind of casual, dressed-down style that the US has always championed (much like button-down collars, in that sense). In fact, that’s what originally made them popular with students, who wanted something comfortable and smart, but sufficiently casual to avoid looking corporate.

Which is why they continue to be so great today. They’re dressier than sneakers, but not as formal as lace-up dress shoes. They go just as well with jeans and casual jackets as they do with sport coats and trousers. The Prince of Wales even wears them with casual suits (although I don’t recommend them with true business clothes). I wear mine three seasons out of the year, all but the coldest of days.

Note, loafers come in a distinct range of formalities. Rancourt, Quoddy, and Oak Street Bootmakers, for example, have rounder toe boxes, making them easier to wear with jeans, and aprons made with functional moccasin stitching. The design derives from the old Norwegian and American Weejun method of making loafers: two pieces of leather form the uppers (one for the plug and the other for the sides). They’re then conjoined using a handsewn saddle stitch. If worn hard enough, that stitching will loosen up a little. Back in the day, students used to duct tape their penny loafers as they were falling apart, which for some was a mark of pride.

Compare those against the more urbane loafers from Edward Green, Carlos Santos, Meermin, and Carmina. Their toes are sleek and shapely; the apron is smoother and more refined. These can look more harmonious with casual suits and sport coats, but they can be too dressy for jeans or shorts. For something between these two worlds, try Alden, JM Weston, and certain loafers from Crockett & Jones  (particularly the Boston and Harvard models). Those ride the line well between casual and formal, allowing you to switch between tailoring and jeans more easily.

The Do It All: Textured Chukkas

No footwear style can do everything for you, but I find chukkas come close. They’re an ankle-height boot that takes its name from a period of play in polo (although, like a lot of menswear history, stories are often mythical and muddled, and there’s little evidence chukkas were actually worn for polo matches). Still, depending on their details, I find they go with nearly everything — casual suits, leather jackets, raw denim, casual trousers, and even fatigues. They straddle the line well in terms of formality.

I like chukkas in a textured brown leather, such as a suede or pebble grain, which I find helps visually break up the vast expanse of material that stretches across the vamp and instep. If you get them with a studded Dainite rubber sole, they also work pretty well as rainboots (just treat the suede uppers with a weatherproof spray and give pebble grains a quick brush down with a wax polish).

Unlike with split toes and penny loafers, there are often fewer details here to get wrong, which is good news if you’re shopping on a budget. Affordable chukkas from Loake, Herring, and Meermin can look just as nice as higher-end options from Alden, Allen Edmonds, Enzo Bonafe, and Vass (although Enzo Bonafe and Vass, being handwelted, are better built). Mine, pictured above, are Crockett & Jones’ Brecon. Many of the usual suspects also have terrific chukkas — Zonkey, Saint Crispins, Alfred Sargent, Edward Green, and Carmina. Unlined models can feel extra comfy in hot weather, but they’ll lack the structure you may want for winter.

For Real Casualwear: Simple, Mostly White Sneakers

It’s good to have a pair of authentically casual shoes, especially if you wear chinos or jeans. Typically this means sneakers — usually white, often simple. Sneakers can help an outfit feel a bit more relaxed and natural. You can even use them to dress down casual sport coats and tailored topcoats, although I find they still often look better with jeans than trousers.

Some of my favorite sneakers these days include Vans slip-ons and Margiela’s German Army Trainers. Plain white sneakers, a la Common Projects, are nice but also a bit ubiquitous. Vans and GATs, on the other hand, have that casual feel that can feel better with sportier, relaxed clothes. I wear mine with camp collar shirts and jeans in the summer, or leather jackets come fall. Adidas also has their version of GATs at the moment, and they’re a lot more affordable than Margiela’s.

Retro-style runners can also be great if you like “Rugged Ivy,” a term for that period in the 1970s when Americans repurposed outdoor brands such as Sierra Designs and Eddie Bauer into their everyday attire. Think: 60/ 40 parkas, Levi’s jeans, and Champion sweatshirts. I especially like Spalwart’s Marathon Lows for this sort of thing, but there are a ton of other options. Other solid sneakers include Chuck Taylors (I like the cushier 1970s version); Nike Air Force 1s (Common Projects and Vor are great upscale-versions of the same design); and Adidas’ Stan Smiths. Check our sneakers tag for more suggestions.

Your Experimental Pair: Side Zip Boots

Finally, make your fifth pair personal, buy something unique. By experimenting with new things, you may find your wardrobe grows in unexpected directions — a pair of pants to go with some new shoes, then a jacket that you didn’t think you’d ever wear.

My wardrobe has really grown in the last few years through my wearing of side-zips, which are close cousin of Chelseas and ropers. They’re a slightly taller boot, usually six inches in height, and have a zipper on the medial part of the foot. Some are clean enough to go with minimalist styles such as those from Lemaire (one of my favorite designers at the moment); others are a bit more rugged and sit better with workwear.

I love Margiela’s zip boots for their silhouette. Over the years, they’ve made sleeker designs and a chunkier, slightly square toe they call their Campus. As it often goes with designer shoes, however, the quality leaves a lot to be desired. The leathers are often thin and treated; the soles glued on. Buying them in suede helps, but guys who are sticklers for quality may be left feeling cold.

If quality is important to you, check out Buttero and Viberg. Buttero has lightweight, Blake stitched boots that work across a range of casualwear styles. Vibergs are a bit more rugged, but still reasonably versatile. Division Road has them in a beautifully rich Horween leather, Lampo zippers, and a Ridgeway sole with dropped midsole to keep them relatively elegant. Sizes are mostly sold out, but they’ll restock soon (the boots picture above are the same boots, but aged).

Lucchese is also a nice, slightly sleeker design. Just buy them in suede, as the smoother calfs can look artificial. TWLV seems good, although I wish they didn’t burnish those toe boxes. Kapital makes some of my favorites, but they’re hard to find outside of Japan (those are dyed with a fermented pomegranate juice that helps the uppers take on a unique color as they age). Lastly, Husbands Paris looks interesting if you like a more mid-century Mod look.

The post Five Shoe Styles I’ve Found Useful — And You May Too appeared first on Put This On.

Every once in a while, we’ll get an email from a reader asking if we have suggestions for how to build a more casual wardrobe. It’s hard to give recommendations because, unlike with tailoring, there aren’t any rules in casualwear. To the degree that certain things can be universally good, most guys can use a better pair of jeans. And the sort of things that accompany them — work boots and chambray shirts.

Chambray, for those unfamiliar, is a close cousin of oxford cloth. Both are dependable workhorse fabrics that can be used in many different situations — straddling the line between formal and casual, depending on the shirt’s details (more on that later). And while you can find them in a range of colors, from optic whites to dusty pinks, they’re most versatile in light blue (the best color for shirts, we think).

A quick word about weaves. To understand chambray, you have to know that the two most common weaves are plain and twill. Twill is what you’ll find on your jeans. It’s distinguished by its subtle ribbing and, often, is slightly heavier in weight. Plain weaves, on the other hand, are made from a simpler cross hatching of yarns, such that each yarn passes over the crossing one in an over-and-under pattern. Think of a basketweave, but finer.

The reason why this is useful to know is because chambray is often mistaken for denim, but the two aren’t the same. Denim shirts are typically heavier and stouter; chambray lighter in weight and more comfortable. This is one of the reasons why, in the early 20th-century, denim was typically used for pants and outerwear, while chambray was reserved for shirts. Farmers, sailors, and factory workers wore chambray shirts because the fabric was comfortable, cheap, and easy to clean (plus, in blue, it hid dirt a bit more easily than white cottons). Hence how we get the term, “blue collar worker.”

We’ve written before about how things such as chinos can be cut and detailed in different ways to swing them towards the more casual or dressier side of the spectrum. Chambray shirts follow many of the same rules. The more detailed the shirt, the more casual it’s considered; the cleaner the look, the dressier. Here’s how to tell the difference between the two, along with suggestions on how to wear each style:

The classic chambray typically has a workwear sensibility, drawing on the style’s utilitarian roots. On these, you’ll often find a double row of stitching at the side seams, then two pockets at the chest (making it slightly closer to a sport shirt, rather than suit-only dress shirts, which typically don’t have any chest pockets). On higher-end models, you’ll also often find some vintage-inspired detailing — chain stitching running off the hem, cat eye buttons, and maybe indigo-dyed yarns. You’ll know when you’re looking at a workwear chambray because there will be lots of rugged detailing.

You can find these from companies such as Real McCoys, Buzz Rickson, Rogue Territory, Orslow, Left Field, Jean Shop, Indigofera, Knickerbocker Mfg, and RRL. Engineered Garments is also popular. Their slightly off-beat style for their chest pockets distinguishes them from the more common variety. One of my favorites in this category is made by Chimala, a Japanese company known for its subtle pre-distressing.  On their work shirts, for example, you’ll find a bit of fraying or darning — details that are hard to achieve on your own if you, like me, work in air-conditioned offices rather than actual job sites. Full retail on these is painfully expensive, but you can sometimes catch them on eBay for about $150.

You can wear workwear style chambrays with things such as bomber jackets, field jackets, and deck jackets. If the fabric isn’t too rugged or heavy, they can also sit pretty comfortably underneath sweaters. Keep these towards the casual end of things. They’re like a more rugged alternative to oxford-cloth button-downs, often better with jeans or rugged chinos, rather than tailored trousers.

(photo above via The Urban Hippie Swe)

The other variety of chambray swings dressier. On first blush, these can look pretty similar to end-on-end, depending on the exact fabric. The difference between these and the previous category is that they’ll look cleaner. Instead of cat eye buttons, you’ll find your standard mother-of-pearl. Instead of double-needle side-seams, these will often be single-needle sewn. Instead of chain stitching hanging off the hem, they’ll be cleanly finished. You know … it’ll look like a dress shirt.

You can find these at the same places you’ll find your other favorite dress shirts: Brooks Brothers, G. Inglese, Gitman Vintage, Kamakura, and Drake’s. One of our sponsors, Proper Cloth, can also do made-to-measure chambrays, which allows you to choose all your details (I particularly like their Ivy collar, which is large enough to give the button-down collar a proper roll). Online made-to-measure can sometimes be dicey, but I’ve been impressed with the shirts I’ve bought from them (although they’re a sponsor here, I’ve paid full price for all my shirts). They offer a free remake on all first-time orders, which helps you dial-in on the fit.

Dressier chambrays can be a great way to take out some of the formality inherent in tailored clothing. They go well with things such as tobacco linen suits, navy hopsack sport coat, and brown tweeds. They can also be worn with jeans if you find the workwear variety to be too early-20th century.

(photo via Voxsartoria)

Finally, if you’re looking for an affordable alternative, the good news is that chambray — originally valued for its affordability anyway — has a pretty narrow range in terms of quality. Unlike cashmere knits, it’s hard to go wrong here. Which means, so long as the shirt fits well and you like the detailing, it’ll be just about as good as anything else you’ll find on the market.

Good starting places for these are the same stores we always recommend for value-minded shoppers — Ralph Lauren, Club Monaco, and J. Crew (J. Crew is always good for this kind of stuff — basic causal shirt in cotton, in a fit they’ve perfected over the years). And, as usual, you’ll want to shop on sale. Basics such as these are easy to find discounted for between 25% and 50% off during sales season. Abercrombie & Fitch, which has really shored up its image since Aaron Levine took over, has a pretty handsome chambray right now for just $40. When shopping, just pay attention to the details, which will throw the shirt into more casual or dressy territory, as described above.

(Photo above via Abercrombie & Fitch. Photos below via George Wang, Edwin Zee, The Armoury, Voxsartoria, Knickerbocker Mfg, J. Crew, Shabby & Industrial, Context Clothing, Drake’s, Breathnaigh, Loftman, and The Sartorialist)

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Daniel Day-Lewis likes clothes. He is a second generation Anderson and Sheppard customer, and once studied how to make handmade shoes. His choices can be a bit eccentric, but I appreciate his willingness to be daring. He can wear the hell out of a suit. Plus, he acts; or used to, anyway.

So when he wears a cool sweater, you can be pretty sure it’s not the selection of a stylist or magazine trying to get an advertiser’s wares into the photo. In a shoot for W magazine as Phantom Thread was being released, Day Lewis wore his own clothes entirely, including a fantastic patterned knit. Rumor was that it might be hand-me-down from his father, which would be a nice story. The sweater subsequently caused a stir in knitting circles, and the knitters got to the bottom of it.

The sweater is a gansey style, the origins of which are in fishing communities in England. (Etymology is not totally clear; and is sometimes linked to Guernsey, an island in the English channel.) These sweaters hit all the squares on the “coveted menswear” bingo card–they have a deep history, are designed to be utilitarian, were often handmade, are practical but archaic, and exist at the crossroads of functional design and decoration. Similar to aran styles, the original sweaters were handknit (often by fisherman’s family members) with no side seams, drop shoulders, and an identical front and back. That way, they could be turned around to even out wear and therefore last longer. I don’t often think of sweaters as outerwear, but ganseys are intended to block wind and water, to a degree. Whether the wool has particularly weatherproof properties is up for debate. Each sweater has a decorative pattern knit into it, so visually, they have a lot more textural interest than a plain Shetland crewneck.

Day Lewis’s sweater, apparently, comes from a maker called Flamborough Marine, an outfit that still makes the sweaters entirely by hand (h/t the Tweed Pig). It’s pretty close to their Staithes model, although allegedly Day Lewis’ knit is custom, intended to match a sweater of his father’s. It looks great on him. Flamborough’s knits are not impulse buys, however, at $500-$600. They do sell a kit so you can knit your own, should you dare, for about $150.

There are other options for similar fisherman’s sweaters, although not all with the provenance of Flamborough’s. Inis Meain often offers a gansey style, J. Crew’s Wallace and Barnes has as well (look also for “Guernsey sweaters”). A Guernsey-based company offers a plainer style at a reasonable price. You can always check ebay.

See also Derek’s guide to buying a good aran sweater.

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Yesterday I talked a bit about the different styles of denim jacket that are out there, and what makes a denim jacket great. Today I’m going to cover different ways to wear one. On one level, a denim jacket is pretty straightforward. It’s a light-ish jacket and, in most cases, indigo. What’s there to wonder about?

On the other hand, there are some big questions. Should you wear a denim jacket with jeans? It depends. A few years ago I may have said no, or not unless the washes significantly contrast. Now I’m more open to it, although I admit whenever I’m wearing jeans and reach for a denim jacket, I hesitate.

My first choices are always going to be a t-shirt, plaid shirt, or oxford shirt with khaki-colored pants. Maybe that’s J.-Crew-catalog-cliched, but pairing it up with other Americana-style items just works. This outfit, basic in every sense of the word, gives you some flexibility with footwear — retro sneakers, heavy boots, or newer, wilder sneaker designs.

Your other options are going to depend on your jacket’s fit.

A Lee 101J or Levis Type 3 (aka trucker) looks great worn slim, with one layer underneath, maybe just a t-shirt. In this case, the jacket should fit like a shirt, with shoulder seams at the edge of your actual shoulder, a chest you can button but without a lot of extra room, and the hem hitting at the waist or just below. (The waist buttons should be tight — the bottom two buttons of a modern denim jacket are rarely buttoned). That fit will also let you wear your denim jacket under other outerwear, and worn denim peeking out from a wool coat provides a nice contrast if you like mixing tailored with more casual items. (For what it’s worth, I consider wearing a tie with a denim jacket affected. Gotta draw the line somewhere.)

If you have a little room in your jacket, you can wear it a little looser, almost shrugged at the shoulders (some 1980s Levis models have this fit built-in). Or you can layer — a hoodie or crewneck sweatshirt is a natural fit here, or a sweater with some texture. This works with pretty much any model of jacket, sized right, but models styled after Levis type 1 and 2 will have more room inside.

Recommended Models

• The world is awash in vintage Levis Type 3s. (Here’s that Heddels link again.) If you want to try out a denim jacket, it can’t hurt hitting your local thrift store or taking a shot on eBay. Fits differ a lot over the years — some are roomier, some slim, some shorter. I prefer older models with no hand pockets, but they cost a bit more (and may also subtly appeal to denim snobs). (New, basic Levis jackets are $90 and totally fine).
• For reproductions or slightly tweaked repros, Levis Vintage Clothing makes very nice versions of its own jackets. Some of their faux worn/ washed models I find to be a little much. The Real McCoys makes some very nice versions, as does Orslow.
• Brands that have a lot of jeans tend to have strong denim jackets. 3sixteen, Gustin, and Tellason all have well regarded models (I like Tellason’s sherpa). They’re at least a few design elements away from obsessively recreating vintage models, but not as interpretive or expensive as some “designer” offerings.
• There’s a lot of attention focused on Helmut Lang right now, as the brand is reissuing some of the denim the designer (who no longer works at his namesake brand) made circa 2000. Vintage Lang jackets sell for $100-$300 on eBay and Grailed with some exceptions for particular models. I have a leather sleeved Rick Owens model I like a lot, although I admit it’s a little edgy for me.

The post The Most Practical Impractical Jacket: The Denim Jacket (part 2) appeared first on Put This On.

On balance, denim sort of sucks, especially for outerwear. It’s stiff when new and wears out reliably, ripping at stress points and busting at the seams. It’s neither particularly warm in the cold nor comfortable in hot weather. It doesn’t seem to give when you want it to, but all of a sudden is too stretched out to wear.

And yet. Denim jackets are second only to leather jackets (motorcycle and bomber jackets, in that order) in their particularly American toughness. All the obvious good things about denim apply to jackets: its particular shade of indigo, its forming to your body with wear, the outlaw history, the fades. And a jacket’s crotch will never blow out at an inopportune time.

I’m talking about the classic, western style, short denim jacket, versus chore coat or french work coat styles. Tapering in width from the chest to the waist, the cut is flattering on most men, and can be worn slim or slightly oversized. If you’re thinking of picking one up for the in-between times of year, those perfect days where you can wear a jacket but don’t necessarily have to, you’ll need to make some decisions.

Martin Sheen acrobatically dons his Levis type 2 in Badlands.

Denim Jacket Styles

Levis Type 1: The OG denim company also made the great grandfather of the modern denim jacket; the type 1 was officially introduced in 1905. The original had a yoke across the chest, a shirt style collar, single front pocket, stitched-down pleats (that can be released for more room), and a buckle back to cinch the fit. The fit is a little boxy compared to later versions.

Levis Type 2: A relatively short-lived model, introduced in 1953 and superseded in 1962, but interesting in its own right. Added a pocket, removed the buckle back.

Levis Type 3: The basic unit of denim jacket–trim, tapered, with pointed pocket flaps, contrast stitching, and, later, hand pockets. The cut and details have varied a lot since its introduction, but the basic style has stayed much the same. Heddels has a great guide on how to date vintage Levis denim jackets. Vibewise, I get more of a workwear/old prospector feel from type 1s and 2s, and more cowboy/rebel style from type 3s.

L to R: Type 1, type 2, type 3.

Lee 101/Riders Jacket: Lee’s version, introduced in the 1940s, seems to have influenced the type 3, as it had higher pockets and more decorative stitching, both of which showed up in Levis Type 3. Lee jackets, at least prior to some design changes in the 1980s, are quite short, even for denim jackets. They have distinctive zig zag stitching on the placket, and slanted, high chest pockets.

Reproduction Versions: Levis Vintage Clothing almost always has some version of its denim jackets available, relatively faithful to vintage originals, but in fresh denim (or distressed, sometimes absurdly). Lee, likewise, often has a reproduction available. The usual repro  suspects, like Real McCoys, reliably offer detail-obsessed versions.

Designer Versions: As jeans went from rebel style to everyday everyone style in the second half of the 20th century, designers making ready-to-wear outside the workwear setting began using the style in their work, and jackets quickly followed. In the 90s and 2000s, in particular, men’s designers like Helmut Lang, Hedi Slimane, and Rick Owens reinterpreted the denim jacket and made it a luxury item.  Lang’s are known for their clean, Levis-influenced design, Slimane’s, like his jeans, were long and lean, and Owens added higher collars and leather sleeves. It’s common to find some take on the jacket in many modern brand offerings, from J. Crew to Our Legacy to Robert Geller.

Coming tomorrow–more on how to pair your denim jacket. 

The post The Most Practical Impractical Jacket: The Denim Jacket (Part One) appeared first on Put This On.

Rock stars weren’t meant to stick around. They ignite, burn, and burn out. Rock music as a genre is reaching the age of its retirement (2018-1954=64), and rock itself has retreated from the charts and popular consciousness. We’ve been making “lol they’re old” jokes about Mick and Keith since the 1990s; now the first generation college rockers of the 1980s are getting there.

I write all of this in order to say: REM’s Michael Stipe looks cooler than ever. If we’re in a time of style eclecticism, when you can wear traditional menswear with thrift store stuff (is thrift store clothing now traditional menswear? A question for another day) and designer clothing, Stipe has been setting that trend for years. He told Men’s Health in 2011:

I started dressing myself out of The Potter’s House [an Athens, Georgia thrift store], and that evolved into the look I had through the ’80s and into the ’90s. Even what I wear now is an extension of that, but as an adult, not a teenager.

In the years since REM disbanded (in 2011), Stipe has mostly been making non-music art–he also produced the new album from art-dance-pop group Fischerspooner. He’s also produced a tremendous beard. Always willing to take chances with his stage wear (Free Tibet Concert-era patterns, air ties, that blue face stripe), offstage Stipe today seems to favor dramatic outerwear, colorful scarves, and thick rimmed glasses, mixing a lot of textures–refined suit fabrics, fuzzy collars, silk scarves, woolly caps.  In interviews going back a decade he’s mentioned favoring brands like Patrik Ervell (he’s friends with the designer), Steven Alan, Hedi Slimane-era Dior Homme, and vintage Helmut Lang.  He often carries a clutch rather than wearing a backpack or carrying a case.

A few years back, Stipe told The Cut: 

Once you’re no longer 27 years old, it’s hard to find really good menswear. It’s really limited. It’s really hard to find inventive, cool, well-cut, affordable clothing if you’re a guy.

Stipe also claimed he’s now more confident.

Fashion is even more fun for me now than when I was younger. I’ve gained confidence in how I put myself together. I like taking chances. Basically, I dress myself to be confident and to feel good. Doing that really changes how you move through your day. It’s not the only factor, but it’s important to move through your day in a way that’s pleasing or satisfying or even triumphant.

This post was inspired by the ongoing album-by-album REM podcast “R U Talkin’ REM RE: ME,” with Adam Scott and Scott Aukerman.

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If you haven’t heard, ugliness is back in fashion. The sort of ill-fitting, cheaply made clothes that inspires your dad to hold up something his closet and wryly ask, “am I trendy now?” Tons of articles have already been written about the return of dad style, as well as the chunky, quasi-orthopedic shoes that accompany it. Part of this is about the return of irony; part of it is about the revival of a very specific ‘90s look. The other part is simply about how trends work, and like with any social group, how fashion insiders love to have a knowing wink as a way to identify each other.

The more interesting part is about how this is a reaction to notions of “good taste.” In a 2013 feature at The New York Times, Miuccia Prada put it succinctly:

The investigation of ugliness is, to me, more interesting than the bourgeois idea of beauty. And why? Because ugly is human. It touches the bad and the dirty side of people. You know, this might have been a scandal in fashion but in other fields of art it is common: in painting and in movies, it was so common to see ugliness. But, yes, it was not used in fashion and I was very much criticized for inventing the trashy and the ugly.

To be sure, the bourgeois ideal of beauty hasn’t been en vogue since the mid-20th century — back when clothiers still made traditional dresses and suits for the rich — but fashion has been unusually obsessed with democratic notions of “coolness” in the past few years. And unbeknownst to many menswear enthusiasts, much of this springs from womenswear. Back in 2011, Phoebe Philo sent fur-lined Birkenstocks down Celine’s runway, which made the style a big hit with women. And shortly after, guys started wearing Birks because of how easily they pair with workwear.

Some of the stuff that’s popular now is too left-field for us, but there are some classically-minded ugly shoes that we think are worth celebrating. Here are ten of my favorites, along with suggestions on how they can be worn today.

New Balance 990s

We love New Balance for their classic retro-styled runners, but their 990 is unabashedly ugly in the best of ways. The techy combination of mesh and suede, along with the needless, almost over-the-top detailing for the soles, are the sort of things that appeals to guys who care more about function than form.

At the same time, the 990s have that weird sense of cool personified by guys such as Steve Jobs and Jerry Seinfeld. Our resident New Balance expert and actual-dad Pete says he wears the 990s with his usual uniform: military jackets or coach jackets, paired with pegged fatigues, wool cargos, and straight-legged corduroys. Sometimes a pair of slimmer-fit jeans than what Steve Jobs would actually wear. “My entire style is ganked from Needles lookbooks and Wonder Mountain styling,” he says. And while you can still wear retro-runners with those ensembles, a pair of 990s will make things look more contemporary.

Quoddy Ring Boots

There was a brief moment about ten years ago when Quoddy’s Ring boots showed up on menswear blogs and lookbooks, but the style sadly never really caught on. Maybe it’s because the boots — which are defined by their moccasin construction and unusual double o-ring closure — look like they were taken from elfish warriors defending Middle Earth. Something you might see on a reenactor at the Northern California Renaissance Faire, or I guess, a workwear enthusiast from 2009.

Still, the style is just odd enough to fit into today’s workwear mode, which often favors slightly more offbeat takes than literal vintage reproductions. The leather is stiff at first, however, and the o-ring closure can be a pain in the ass to operate. I find I mostly just slip them on, but that’s difficult until the leather breaks-in (apparently laces are a useful invention). I’m admittedly not totally sold on them, but that’s kinda true with almost anything on the good side of ugly.

Anything from Yuketen

One of my favorite brands for classic, outdoorsman style shoes. Yuketen looks like the best of a mid-century LL Bean catalog — from guide boots to Ghillie lace-ups — but is remixed with a sense of humor. The designer, Yuki Matsuda, frequently combines odd materials for the uppers, maybe Harris tweed with Horween pull-up leather, or a patchwork combo of strange colors. The soles are often chunky, giving the shoes a hefty profile and sense of ruggedness. And while fashion-minded footwear is typically poorly made, these stand up to the best of them. Matsuda uses reputable factories, ones making more traditional, moccasin-style and Goodyear-welted shoes. Just note that these run a bit wide, so either buy from a store that allows for easy returns or take a chance and go a half-size down.

Yuketen pairs with almost anything that would be considered workwear or Americana, from more basic Ralph Lauren to Japanese imports such as Engineered Garments. The appeal here is all in how well the brand rides the line between classic menswear and contemporary style.

Monkey Boots

Monkey boots, which are occasionally referred to as carpenter boots, were worn by British Mods and skinheads from 1960s through ‘80s. They have a short, almost truncated profile since the facings — a term for the parts of the shoe that hold the eyelets — come up to the tip of the boot. They’re rugged, classic, and have a strong working class heritage (even before when the term skinhead referred to racists and white nationalists). And for a more traditional workwear style, they may just be the right call.

Naturally, given their history, you can expect to find monkey boots from brands such Doc Martens, but the leather is often corrected grain and of poor quality. Tricker’s makes a better version, although it’s considerably more expensive. I also have a pair from Alfred Sargent, but admittedly never wear them. They go with slightly fuller cut jeans and heavy-duty flannels, Harrington jackets, and rounded military-styled outerwear. This can be a nice option if you like that ‘60s British style.

Norwegian Split Toes

Split-toes look like something your college roommate would do to your dress shoes, drawing a line at the front to make them look vaguely penile. The seam actually comes from an old British style known as a Navvy cut, which refers to how British navigational engineers (or navvies for short) used to wear split-toes while working on wet canals, railways, and roads. Some say this was a cost-saving measure that allowed shoemakers to use lower-quality parts of the hide; others say it resulted in a more water resistant construction. Frankly, I don’t know the seam’s real function, but I love the style. Wingtips are too common; cap toes too plain. Norwegian split-toes plant your feet in the ground and say you like something a little different.

To my eye, Edward Green makes the best split-toe, partly because of the unique piecrust apron and toe seam — the second of which they make with a reversed split-and-lift stitch, which gives the seam a slight texture without it looking like taxidermy. Other great options include Carlos Santos, Meermin, Carmina, Crockett & Jones, and Enzo Boanfe, all of which are more affordable. I wear split-toes almost every day with sport coats and trousers, although I prefer a more traditional oxford with actual suits.

Tyrolean Shoes

Tyrolean shoes were originally made for long walks along the Alps, but sometime in the 1950s, they gained broader appeal. The French apparently love them, as do the Japanese. The reason is simple: they’re comfortable and weatherproof. These are typically made with grippy soles, Norwegian welts, and heavy-duty leather uppers that have been generously oiled with natural fats. That makes the leather a bit more water-resistant and pliable, perfect for the bellow tongues that are also designed to keep out water. The two-eyelet lacing system makes these an easy wet-weather shoe for when you don’t want to deal with boots.

Back when they were still publishing, the editors at Free & Easy loved to include Tyrolean shoes in almost every issue. The funkier style went well with the kind of workwear-inspired clothes they liked to write about. With the right pair of slim pants and topcoat, they can also go with more casual forms of tailoring. You can find them from companies such as Heschung and Paraboot. For a more affordable version, you can always consider Clarks’ Wallabees or Padmore & Barnes’ P204 (the original Wallabees). They don’t have the same water-resistance, but they’re also a lot cheaper.

Tevas Sandals

Men’s style enthusiasts love to hate open-toed footwear, and while it’s true sandals are often a bad look, Tevas have a charm that comes from those olden days of family vacations. In recent years, they’ve been copied by brands such as Prada, Valentino, and Berluti; designers such as Patrik Ervell have sent them down runways. Pictured above is this season’s Qasimi spring/ summer presentation showing a similar look.

I mostly like these Velcro’d sandals for the same reasons I like Birkenstocks. They go well with crunchier takes on Americana, whether that be ‘70s Rugged Ivy, vintage Patagonia, or shorts with a chambray shirt and bucket hat. For something safer, you can try closed-toe huaraches. Companies such as Todd Snyder and Sid Mashburn also sell some nice leather sandals, and we have a post here on sandals that don’t suck.

The Budapester

During the Austro-Hungarian Empire, shoemakers located along the banks of the Danube in Budapest and Vienna used to make footwear for country gentlemen and Army officers. The region’s most iconic design is known as the Budapester. Although it most often comes as a wingtip, the Budapester is really more of a shape than a style. Built with high side walls, a slightly upturned toe, and a heavy appearance, it’s about as chunky of a silhouette as you can imagine. These shoes were designed to take a hit from a round-nosed bullet – and perhaps make them look like one too. That kind of shape doesn’t photograph as well as the kind of tight-waisted, sleek shoes that come out of Italy and Japan, but they look tremendous with the right clothes. Think: cavalry twills with ribbed corduroys, or warm flannels with heavy tweeds.

There are a ton of companies offering Budapester-styled shoes, including Materna, Ludwig Reiter, Massschuhe Stefan, Heinrich Dinkelacker, and Buday. One of the most popular, however, is Vass, a company known for offering exceptional quality given their price point. Their New Peter last isn’t technically a Budapester, but it has a slightly more contemporary shape that I think makes it easier to wear (while still carrying the original Budapester spirit). You can find them at No Man Walks Alone and Jeeves.

Belgian Shoes

Belgians are essentially soft-soled house slippers with a trimmed apron and dainty little bow. To some, they vaguely resemble women’s ballet flats, which is what gives them a more feminine look. Often described as the shoes of art dealers — and famously worn by Bernie Madoff and the late, great Glenn O’Brien — they’re typically paired with flat front pants and loosely cut sport coats.

I personally like them when they look less preppy. Eidos designer Antonio Ciongoli, for example, can be see above wearing Belgians with patchwork chinos and a band collar shirt. Agyesh at Stoffa wears them with suede leather jackets, long-sleeved polos, and peached cotton trousers. Given their slightly feminine vibe, I find they’re often great on very masculine looking guys (as Agyesh puts it, they can help “round out the corners”). For something less dainty looking, there’s also Baudoin & Lange, who makes similar slip-ons without the bow.

L.L. Bean Boots

The original menswear choice for ugly footwear. There’s not a single person who wasn’t horrified the first time they saw duck boots — a love for them has to be beaten into you through repeated exposure. L.L. Bean’s version is the most famous. They were invented in 1911, a year before the company’s founding, by Leon Leonwood Bean (the original L.L. Bean). Supposedly, he noticed his feet kept getting wet and cold during his hunting trips, so he came up with a new shoe design whereby the rubber came up higher on the boot. The rest of the boots, the shafts, were then made from a breathable leather. Bean formed L.L. Bean Company to market and sell his shoes — and everything since has followed.

Bean boots have become a favorite of people in the Northeast, college kids, and menswear enthusiasts (see our Bean boot buying guide). They’re reasonably affordable, last forever, and are incredibly effective and keeping out water. You can wear them with almost any kind of classic American piece of casualwear, from mountain parkas and five-pocket cords, to more rugged pieces of workwear. I wear mine with jeans and Nigel Cabourn outerwear. These are undeniably ugly, but like with the best ugly shoes, they’re ugly in just the right ways.

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