The king of literal dad shoes remains, in my opinion, the Nike Air Monarch, despite the youth (dads call young people “the youth”) trying to co-opt this symbol of dad culture.

But the top dad sneaker in concept, and the one people keep coming back to, is New Balance. NB hits a lot of dad-centric values. The company has been around for decades, and makes many of its classic models in the United States (and has roots in Boston, a classic dad city). Most of its models come in a mid-gray that, potentially, complements dad’s hair. They’re exceedingly wearable, and rarely flashy. And they make various widths; dad’s feet are probably a mess.

New Balance uses numbers rather than names for their shoe models, which seems like the sort of no-nonsense approach dad would appreciate. (For most modern models, the numbers do in fact have some meaning.) With such similar styling among them, it can be hard to determine which model is a good fit for you, whether you’re a father or not. They nearly all come in gray suede and mesh (among other colors); they all feature the italicized “N” on the side; they all boast various performance features that you, like dad, will not be needing in your life. So here’s a quick guide to New Balance’s daddier models.

The 990 Series

New Balance was the first company to breach the $100 mark for a pair of running sneakers with the original 990, which was intended as a top performance running shoe back in 1982. (For reference, adjusted for inflation, that shoe would cost in the area of $250 today; a very un-dad amount to spend on sneakers. The Air Monarch is $65.) The 990 has been updated several times — a risky move — and each version was a hit with dads, most famously Steve Jobs. To add extra confusion, model names in the 990 series are not consistent, and include 991, 993, and the current iteration, 990v4.

The 990 through the years–1982 design top left; 990v4 bottom right. I see shades of Balenciaga’s triple S in the 992, bottom left.

The 990 designs are consistent in many ways: a runner’s toe (where the rubber on the sole wraps up to the toe), a distinct heel cup, different colors on the midsole designating different density foams, a solid side panel under the N, and in post-1982 versions, web-y panels linking the toe bumper to the lace panels. This is probably to go-to classic dad New Balance, and an unassuming luxury.

An Engineered Garments mixed color panel pair from 2013. Still gray!

It being a postmodern era of sneakers, you can buy several of the 990 versions right now, new. The plain ol’ 990v4 is about $175, special editions cost more. New Balance also sells the 990v2, and a retro of the original. You can get the 990v3 in New Balance’s custom program (like Nike ID), and if you want older models, they regularly release retros, and some are still available from places like Joe’s New Balance outlet, a reputable site.

The 998

The New Balance 998 is not in the 990 series, but is like the 990’s slightly chunkier cousin, with a longer tongue and slightly more aggressive drop from heel to toe. The 998 has been the basis for many collaborations and wilder colorways than some other NB models. In my opinion, the 998 has a slightly tech-ier vibe than the early 990s; it’s charming in the same way Disney’s Tomorrowland is charming.

Its lacing is also a little wider than the 990’s, so it looks a little larger on your foot, in my perception. The 998 is far less common than the 990. It takes a little seeking out; for that, it loses dad points, because dad does not spend time shopping for sneakers, unless he think another sporting goods store will have a better price.

1300 Classic

Originally released in 1984, the 1300 was New Balance’s next “Hey this shoe must be great because it’s stupid expensive” venture, at $130 original retail. It happens to be my favorite design; I just think it’s a ideally balanced runner. Not too basic and retro, not too technical or complicated. The right proportion of suede to mesh. I like the slight blue cast of the trim on the 1300 classic gray colorway. I’ve owned the current retro model, which is admittedly dear at $200 retail. The collector’s special is the 1300JP, which looks a bit more like the original shoe and is released in limited numbers every 5 years or so.

The sought-after 1300JP.

There’s also a current model 1300 walking shoe, which is so dad it’s downright grandfatherly.

The 574

The 574 was arguably New Balance’s first “lifestyle” shoe. It uses some of the same technical features as New Balance’s higher end running shoes, but found its audience in the late 1980s and early 1990s less with dedicated marathoners than with people who just wanted to wear sneakers. It helped that the 574 was cheaper than New Balance’s flagship sneakers — the lower model number at the time indicated, in part, where it sat in New Balance’s pricing structure.

In the 1990s, the 574 was broadly adopted by hip hop and streetwear scenes, leading to dozens of colorways exclusive to specific shops in Japan and the United States. Likewise, it found purchase within the hardcore punk community, largely as part of the jock-riffing straight edge movement, who paired it with camo pants and varsity jackets.

Although the 574 is a later model and derivative of New Balance’s more innovative models, it’s a classic design up there with Vans Eras or Nike Dunks, to me. It doesn’t have the made-in-USA pedigree of the pricier models, but that’s not an expectation we have these days of Nike, Adidas, etc., so it seems unfair to totally hold it against the 574.

New Balance Fits in Almost Anywhere

Besides the dad qualities, one of the amazing things about New Balance is its relevance across the fashion spectrum. Maybe in part because there’s so few connotations with New Balance — unlike, say, basketball or tennis sneakers — it can be worn in nearly any current sneaker-friendly context (important note: New Balance has staked out some political ground that you (or your dad) may or may not like). Fashion dudes wear them to runway shows. Minimalist wardrobe palette guys wear them. Workwear guys wear them. Ivy/Rugged Ivy guys wear them. Americana guys wear them. I guess maybe people still wear them to run?

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Sitting on the beach while on vacation in Naples, Florida, I mentioned to my wife that I hoped to visit Maus and Hoffman while we were in town. When she asked what kind of store it was, I told her, from my limited knowledge, it seemed like the kind of place you went if you really needed a $2,000 cashmere, salmon-colored sportcoat. I went, and I found the sportcoat! It was $4,000.

Maus and Hoffman is headquartered on Florida’s gilded Atlantic coast in Palm Beach, and at first glance, their clothing seems like it would appeal to a cartoon of a rich retiree, and I mean that in the best way. Clothes that look good with a sun tan and a golden parachute.

Traditional Clothing for the Florida Man

Often we refer to “traditional men’s stores” and the implication is staid, old school, solid taste. Like J. Press. Maus and Hoffman has been a family run men’s (and women’s) store for over 75 years. And it’s similar to Press in that it carries a lot of self-label merchandise from traditional makers — American and Italian tailoring, Scottish cashmere sweaters, Italian silk neckties — but the store takes a lot more chances with pattern and color. This is, after all, south Florida, not an Ivy League college town; and the Wall Street guys here have traded in their pinstripes and black captoes for berry-colored polos and lizard loafers.

I chatted with salesman Allen Wade at the Naples location, which opened in 1971, a few blocks from the Gulf of Mexico (and these days, a Tommy Bahama store AND restaurant). Wade told me they’ve tried carrying more business-oriented merchandise, but customers aren’t looking for plain toe bluchers. The shoe wall here is all loafers, from a wide variety of makers — Alden sand suede penny loafers, absolutely gorgeous Edward Green loafers, and loafers from their house label: horse-bit-and-silk embellished, or Belgian style from their Italian-sourced house label, Solemare (Italian for “sun and sea,” as Wade explained).

Ties That Won’t Put You to Sleep

The decor of the store, at least, is indeed old school. It’s a small-ish space on a quiet corner, interior dark-wood-paneled and Florida-sun-lit. Upon entry, you’re greeted by a navy-blazer ensemble on a mannequin; a table of perfect cashmere crewnecks on the left, loafer wall ahead. Dress and sport shirts sit on glass shelves and tailoring on recessed racks with utilitarian display hooks. The digs are not showy; but the clothes are.

Maus and Hoffman covers the basics well. Some blazers are wild and pricy, but they have basic navies as well, and made-in-Canada models are closer to $1,000 than to the $4,000 pink cashmere number. Trousers are mostly American made and you can get some nice, traditionally cut khaki twills. Or you can get some bright coral corduroys. It is almost winter, after all.

With so much men’s shopping similar, if not the same, from city to city, the idiosyncrasy and embrace of the climate at Maus and Hoffman is refreshing. I like the tailoring and dressier clothing, but I really loved the accessories and outerwear. A captain’s cap that was basically bedazzled, French-made bucket hats in sunwashed canvas, silk boutonnieres. Floral ties from a Parisian label, Leonard, that I did not get a photo of, but which, Wade told me, primarily print silks for women’s dresses. These were wonderfully obnoxious.

Maus’s outerwear is colorful as well. Baracuta-style drizzler jackets in purple. A tweed shirt jacket in a light mossy flecked herringbone. Some leather jackets I’d leave on the rack (I mean, how often would you wear this in Naples?) but also an unlined Italian A-1 I almost walked out with.

Not everything at Maus and Hoffman is for me. For one, the cuts were generally more generous than I go for. Wade admitted their customers are looking for comfortable cuts, and that sometimes that’s a point that needs reinforcing with Italian makers who cut closer to the body. But I’m genuinely cheered there are still places a guy can get a cravat and a custom Alpaca golf sweater.

In a time when men’s clothing-related mills, makers, and stores seem to be closing left and right, I often ask guys with good style not what they wish was still around, but what we should be enjoying that’s special and still here. Maus and Hoffman is a shop like that — a truly unique place guys should check out, even if they already have a salmon sportcoat.

Maus and Hoffman

3rd Street S. at 14th Ave.
Naples, FL 34102
Phone: 239-262-7611
naples@mausandhoffman.com

Other locations in Palm Beach, Vero Beach, and Fort Lauderdale

The post Loafers Only: A Visit To Florida’s Maus And Hoffman appeared first on Put This On.

For the most part, regional style in America is gone. You’re a little more likely to see prep styles in the northeast than in other places; more likely to see fleece in the Pacific northwest; more likely to see boardshorts with flames on them worn as business attire in Florida. But no matter the cause, people pretty much wear the same things everywhere.

You’d expect me to say, at this point, that westernwear is great because it’s a legit, lasting regional style. But that’s not really true. There’s western wear shops everywhere. Heck, I live in Maryland and there’s one in Glen Burnie. And wherever you are, you’re probably no more than 20 minute drive from a place selling Wrangler western shirts. (There’s also hundreds of Brooks Brothers stores selling the OCBD lifestyle worldwide.)

So I didn’t need to come to Denver to visit Rockmount Ranch Wear to find a western shirt, a style I’ve dug since it was an indie rock cliche in the 90s. Western shirts (and western wear in general) represent such an odd, wonderful mix of traditional masculinity (we’re tough! we need shirts that won’t restrict us if we get caught on the horn of a goddamn BULL!) and colorful, wild self-decoration (we also need embroidery! And lots of interesting trim!).

Opening the door into Rockmount’s only retail location, in an old warehouse in downtown Denver, feels a bit special. Rockmount (headquartered near the Rocky Mountains; get it?) claims to have essentially invented the western shirt, or at least the snap button western, in the 1940s. Jack A. Weil, grandfather of the current Rockmount president, put diamond snaps on western-styled yoked shirts for safety and durability. Weil took what was essentially farm workwear and glamorized it, once telling an interviewer “The first thing I did was get rid of the farmer.” Diamond shaped snaps and sawtooth (two point) pocket flaps remain signatures of the Rockmount western.

The store has a small, dusty museum section in a loft overlooking the sales floor featuring old Rockmount clothing and memorabilia. There’s also some well-worn office space and filing cabinets–the company still does mostly wholesale. The floor is occupied by racks and racks of western shirts, primarily. Mostly for men, but plenty for women, and a lot of amazing kids’ shirts. They also carry hats (Stetson), boots (a lot of, but not exclusively, Lucchese), and accessories like bolo ties and tooled belts. And Rockmount souvenir tshirts, because it’s a tourist destination, after all.

Rockmount seems aware of the inherent silliness of the western shirt, and makes a lot in wild fabrics–florals, graphic prints, even Hawaiian prints. They famously embroidered cannabis leaves on shirts a few years ago (recreational pot was legalized in Denver in 2014). My favorites are basic chambrays and denims, many of which are still made in USA (the embroidered shirts are not–I didn’t see a noticeable quality difference handling new shirts). But there’s plenty of options for the bold. I also really liked the fleece versions, which reminded me of 90s Ralph Lauren western themes.

I also appreciated that, while many shirts are sizes S, M, L, (you’ll probably want to buy a size smaller than your standard–they run relaxed), Rockmount sells some shirts with collar/sleeve measurements, dress shirt style. I found my size 16/34 to fit ideally–neither baggy nor constricting. Most shirts are around $100, although some of the coolest ones I saw were on the 20% off sale rack.

Rockmount Ranch Wear
1626 Wazee St
Denver, CO 80202

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New England Workwear: Mighty Mac Out O’ Gloucester

New England is known for its preppy clothing and wet-weather gear. Think of things such as J. Press duffle coats, LL Bean duck boots, and heavy Shetland sweaters. But these Northeastern states are more than just Ivy Style and people walking their golden retrievers in the woods. One of the great equalizers of the region is the ocean. Whether they’re a Hyannisport yachtsman or commercial fisherman, people of the Northeast have made the ocean a place of both business and pleasure for generations. And few brands speak to that history like Mighty Mac Out O’ Gloucester — or Mighty Mac for short.

Started in 1909, the brand made clothing with boat decks in mind. Their clothing functions as a mixture of hardwearing workwear and nautical design. Instead of a plethora of denim and leather, as most workwear labels would have, Mighty Mac specialized in windbreakers, overcoats, and parkas. There’s a lot of nylon and treated wools, which are perfect for insulating wearers from the rain and staving off the gusty wind when sailing. Plus the brand always experimented with practicality, from item-specific pockets, packable garments, and zippers featuring a unique T-bar so that you could zip up with gloves on, an innovation that really should be copied more often.

The brand wasn’t lying when it ended its title with O’ Gloucester — the factory pumping out this nautical gear was a point of pride for the oceanside town. It maintained a great mix of New England personality, focusing on Protestant thrift and practicality, but adding some splashes of color in line with the ostentatiousness you’d expect from the region that created Nantucket red.

After churning out jackets, shirts, and more for decades, Might Mac reached larger prominence in the 70s, when bold colors, big collars, and synthetic fibers took center stage. At one point, ski slopes were dotted with these bright parkas. However, a bust followed the boom and the company shuttered in the ‘90s. Nowadays the label is owned by Japanese Americana revivalist company 35summers (you may know it as the savior of Rocky Mountain Featherbed and Big Yank). They put out recreations of the Mighty Mac archives (along with some novelties) and there’s still a fondness for the label in Gloucester despite the operation moving overseas — as evidenced by this travelogue from a former mayor of the town.

If you’re into the niche nautical wing of workwear, this brand is excellent. Due to its Japanese make, it can be hard to find in the states (except via sites such as Rakuten), but there’s a whole lot of vintage out there to peruse on eBay. Any Mighty Mac will stand out in today’s outerwear field, and the brand’s offerings are perfect for those cold, wet days of early spring.

Also, on a personal note, this brand is near and dear to me. When I was a teenager I found a vintage Mighty Mac parka in a brick red with reflective stripes on the sleeves. It was miraculously warm, without ever making me overheat, and it went surprisingly well with most things in my wardrobe. I wore it nearly every winter day of high school and into college, and when it was getting a little long in the tooth, you bet your sweet bippy I scoured eBay and bought another one. Senior and Junior are pictured above. That coat still comes out in the real nasty days of winter. Probably the best decision I made in high school.

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It’s hard to overstate what a wasteland the entry level suit market was a decade ago. When I was coming out of college (more than a decade ago!), nearly every guy I knew was going to Joseph A. Bank or Brooks Brothers (if they had a little more scratch) for their “interview suit.” I wanted a nicer suit myself, but I was working as a bartender and felt $250 was a stretch, let alone $500–I ended up with a boxy 3-button number from Joey Banks (on sale!). Not much has changed. A few years back, Derek wrote a great guide to first suit choices at any price level–there were only two options at $500 or less.

So I was glad to read about Jomers suits, which intend to offer higher quality and more modern styling at a consistent price of $250, about the same price as the current model of my old Joseph A. Bank suit. (Jomers also makes trousers, shirts, and polos, all in a modern, trim, generally Italian style.) Jomers sent me two suits to review and try on, and I talked over email with Jomers’ CEO Meyer Dagmy. So what can you get for $250 these days?

The Nicest Suit You’re Likely to Find for the Price

The Jomers suits I received were both in 100% wool, Italian fabric from Vitale Barberis Canonico, one in a lighter blue and one in navy with a little tonal variation (you can see my natural light photos of both above–closeups of the jacket are the darker blue). The fabrics are certainly nicer than what you’d find in a mall–more depth to the color, more interesting weave, and they hang well. They seem about in line with SuitSupply, which is our usual recommendation for suits <$500 and the line you most often see Jomers compared against.

The construction and quality is solid for the price. They’re half canvassed, which is a measure of quality you may not appreciate until you’ve worn the suit a decent amount (for what it’s worth, my 2000s Joseph A Bank suit eventually got the dreaded bubbling in the chest and lapel as the fusing fell apart–suits that are half canvassed have a better reputation). The suits are mostly machine made (not a criticism–you won’t find a lot of handwork in off-the-rack suits under $1000). Meyer told me that there is some hand stitching in the shoulder, as well.

The Jomers suit wasn’t stiff out the box and the lapels and body were shaped well–without a long-term test it would be hard to know how it would break in. I did see a few loose stitches here and there, but nothing structural. I’ve seen some complaints online that the suits arrive wrinkled, but that seems like a ridiculous thing to complain about. You should expect to get any off-the-rack suit altered, and your tailor can steam or press the suit.

Cut and Styling

Jomers cuts a modern suit in a style that should suit most young-ish guys who want a slim suit for work or formal-but-not-too-formal occasions. The suits are two-button, single breasted, with flap hip pockets and double vents. The lapels are a moderate width and the gorge is on the higher side. They have a barchetta-shaped breast pocket (not as exaggerated as I’ve seen on some Italian jackets). Trousers are a standard drop six (e.g. a size 40R jacket comes with 34 waist pants), flat front, trim, and tapered. They have a split waistband in the rear, which in my experience helps the waist give a little with movement.

Jomers’ model is pretty much exactly what you’re looking for in a first suit. A current-looking suit that doesn’t take a lot of chances. If the only suit in your closet has a ticket pocket, contrast stitching, and a peak lapel, you overdid it. Jomers suits are restrained in that aspect–although they do offer a more casual model with patch hip pockets. The horn buttons complement the fabrics and the lining is industry standard Bemberg (pants are lined as well).

Jomers suits feature pick stitching (a decorative line of edge stitching in places like the lapel and pocket flaps), a detail that in the past was seen on higher-priced suits that you see more often these days–sticklers for conservative dress might find it overly decorative.

Fit and Sizing

Jomers aims to make a trim suit (one of the things that differentiates them from the low-armhole, lowest-common-denominator budget suits out there) and they aren’t kidding. I found the suits I handled to be a bit tighter all around than any of my other off-the-rack jackets, save maybe Italian brand Boglioli. Without alterations, the shoulders were trim but OK (see photo); the chest fit quite close and the waist button pulled. The armholes are high, but not constricting. (For what it’s worth, I measured these Jomers size 42 jackets as about 22 inches across the chest, or 44 all around. This measurement can’t capture the shape of a jacket but it’s a decent shorthand for slim vs looser fits. I don’t wear particularly slim suits and most of my jackets are in the range of  45-46 around the chest.)

A competent alterations tailor can tweak some of the fit of a jacket (which anyone buying a new off-the-rack suit should account for, in time and money). Take care, however, that a new suit fits how you like in the shoulders and chest, which are a challenge if not impossible to alter significantly.

I’ve tried SuitSupply’s Napoli and Sienna models in 42 as well, and I found Jomers’ suits to be slightly tighter in the chest and waist. Meyer told me that some customers have said Jomers suits aren’t as trim as they’d like–based on the suits I tried that surprises me.

Currently, the suits are offered only as a jacket with the accompanying drop-six trousers. Jomers plans to offer separates in the future to allow customers to order trousers in a different size, and may do so in their next run (slated for January 2018).

The trousers fit me rather well. I wouldn’t alter a thing except have the hems finished. I found the rise on the trousers to be neither very high nor very low.

Buying Jomers Suits

One thing Joe Banks and Brooks have going for them is they’re in every decently sized city. Walk in and you can try stuff on, and even line up alterations. Jomers is able to offer their suits at such a low price at least in part because they don’t have to pay for retail spaces and sales associates all over the place. The upside for customers is obvious–you can get a suit that might otherwise be out of your price range. The trade off is that you have to order online without trying on, and in Jomers’ case the supply and demand are such that you pretty much have to order as soon as wares become available (stuff sells out quickly). Meyer told me they intend to double the number of units available in the next batch, which had 200-250 suits available in each fabric.

Jomers offers free shipping, and has a 14-day full-refund return policy (buyer pays return shipping). So the only real risk in ordering is that the suit you want may not be available when your return is complete. If I were ordering a Jomers suit today, I would likely order my usual size and one size up, then return the size that didn’t fit as well, and factor the return shipping cost into the cost of my suit.

We generally recommend you save to buy what you really want, and recommend a lot of tailoring that requires some investment. But many guys just aren’t ready to buy a $500+ suit. Jomers solidly fills a niche for people who want better fabric and non-stodgy styling at a price that doesn’t assume you already have a six-figure salary.

The post Another Option For Suits On A Budget: Jomers appeared first on Put This On.

There’s never been a better time to buy a pair of shoes, but never a worse time to start a shoe company. Ten years ago, the marketplace for entry-level footwear was dominated by Allen Edmonds and their much-coveted factory-seconds. More resourceful shoppers may have known of European names such as Loake and Yanko, the second of which was a precursor to Carmina, but it took a bit of digging to find those the US. Anything else and you were in the same price territory as Alden and Crockett & Jones – brands that made exceptional footwear, but with price tags that were just as jaw dropping.

The market for that sub-$500 price category in the last ten years, however, has exploded. It’s not terribly hard to buy quality footwear nowadays for less than what you’d spend for something made in Northampton. We’ve reviewed a few names in the past – Meermin, Bow Tie, Carlos Santos, Jack Erwin, and Beckett Simonon. Each is aimed at the more informed, budget-conscious consumer (e.g. ones who know the difference between full-grain leathers and corrected grain). At the same time, each has their own compromise. Meermin’s shoes are tough to break-in; Bow Tie and Carlos Santos are hard to find in the US; Jack Erwin, while solid, isn’t as nice as what you’d get from more established names; and Beckett Simonon’s pre-ordering system involves longer delivery times.

Cobbler Union is the rare exception. They’re an Atlanta-based company making shoes in Spain, with models priced around $400. That’s more than what you’d pay for the aforementioned brands – double of Meermin – but also the same as what you’d spend for a pair of box-fresh, first-quality Allen Edmonds. The styling, however, is much, much better.

The company recently loaned me a pair of their brown semi-brogues. It’s a shapely oxford built on an almond-toe last, with handsome perforations going around for decoration. The uppers are constructed from a conservative museum calf leather – much more conservative than what I’ve seen from other brands, making them interesting, but also easy to wear. The term “museum calf” refers to a mottled leather with subtle color variegation, giving it a bit of visual depth, as though you were looking at dark wood.

On paper, Cobbler Union’s specs are impressive, but not all that unusual. The leathers are always full grain, sourced from well-respected European tanneries, such as du Puy and Charles Stead. The soles are Goodyear welted; the heels made from stacked pieces of leather (rather than ground-up reconstituted leather). The heel and toe stiffeners, which are used to give the shoe structure, are made from an impregnated plastic. Leather would be better, as it can be reshaped if it ever breaks down, but it’s hard to find leather stiffeners in anything less than bespoke nowadays. Besides, plastic stiffeners are mostly a non-issue if you use shoehorns, which you definitely should be using.

What sets Cobbler Union apart is simply the design. Daniel Porcelli, one of the company’s co-founders, previously worked in the bespoke footwear business with famed shoemaker Norman Vilalta. Cobbler Union’s shoes are all ready-made, not custom, but they carry some of the styling and detailing found in higher-end shoes. The soles are channeled, which means a thin flap of leather has been used to cover the bottom, masking the stitching. There’s also a fiddleback waist, which you can see above. It’s a detail bespoke shoemakers used put onto exhibition footwear, but it’s since made its way from the top of the market on down. Rare to see it on at this price point, however.

I’m mostly impressed by the design and general execution. Some of Cobbler Union’s shoes lean towards the European side of the spectrum, but there are conservative models in there that would fit into any environment. The lasts look a bit more shapely online than they do in-person (I was admittedly unsure at first, but was impressed when I had them in-hand). I’d compare the semi-brogues they loaned me to John Lobb’s 7000 last, which I’ve always thought was the best last for oxfords. There’s also a bit of quilting for the sock (the piece of leather that goes directly under your foot’s heel). It’s a statement detail, but one I appreciate is mostly for the wearer, rather than others.

The nice thing about Cobbler Union is that, provided you like the style, there’s little compromise at this price point. The shoes are readily available in the US with free shipping and returns, which makes trying something hassle-free. The build quality compares well to shoes retailing for double the price; the designs are sleeker than more traditional American names. You’ll pay more here than you would at shops such as Jack Erwin, but you’re also getting a lot more. Very much worth a look for guys who like European-styled footwear.

* Note, as per our editorial policy, these shoes were returned to the company. We don’t take free items. 

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I’ve heard vintage pickers speak wistfully of how easy it was to find weird, cool American sportswear all over the place a couple of decades ago; when dusty hunting and sporting goods stores had shelves of deadstock gold and small-town thrifts were overflowing with Levis redlines. And the boxcars were all empty and the sun shined every day, right?

There may not be a lot of secret, un-picked sporting good stores left in the United States but there’s still a few companies making the sort of stuff you’d want to find there; Stan Ray, for example, for fatigues and work pants; L.C. King, for chore coats, etc.–less accessible but no less sought after is Pennsylvania’s Camber label, which specializes in heavyweight knit cotton garments for work and sports.

I really enjoyed the Wall Street Journal’s recent piece comparing gray hooded sweatshirts, a wardrobe staple if there ever was one. But they seemed to be aiming for a streamlined fit that, although I appreciate it, doesn’t have the same vibe as a solid vintage American sweatshirt like a Camber or Champion reverse weave, classic elements of the casual American look Derek wrote about awhile back. Alas, Champion’s current stuff, while decent, isn’t quite up to the standards of the extra beef of their 80s classics. (Side note, the Todd Snyder stuff endorsed by the WSJ is in fact excellent.)

While I favor Camber’s pullover or zip hoodies, they also make heavyweight pocket tshirts and extra heavy, waffle-knit-lined sweats that really qualify as outerwear. Most pieces come in familiar, collegiate colors of gray, pine, burgundy, navy, and black, plus bright orange and, in some garments, hi-visibility for work purposes. Camber gear is also cut pretty big; while something like a Buzz Rickson sweatshirt is liable to run small and trim, current Camber runs roomy.

Camber doesn’t sell direct to consumers, and in fact a lot of the Camber you might see in the wild is private label. Camber has been the label-under-the-label for a lot of streetwear brands for years, including Bape offshoot Very Ape, Futura-labeled stuff, and, rumor has it, Engineered Garments Workaday (look for a made-in-USA vs made-in-Canada label). Some private label stuff is, of course, fit- and detail- adjusted–I’ve handled basic Camber blanks and some of those other labels and they’re not identical, although the basic build is consistent.

You can buy Camber stuff online from All USA Clothing or All Seasons Uniforms–prices are terrific but unfortunately those sites claim to have month-plus lead times. Dave’s New York has carried them but seems out right now. One of our favorite vintage shops, Wooden Sleepers, recently had a bunch of shop crewnecks and hoodies printed on Camber sweats (one of which I bought, which prompted this post). You can always search Etsy and Ebay, which often have some new and vintage models (keep an eye on those shipping time disclaimers for new pieces). Rakuten is an option as well, as Camber has a good reputation in Japan.

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It’s been almost fifteen years since menswear became obsessed with all things Americana. And since then, it feels like no stone has been left unturned – every factory, every workshop, and every studio has been raided for its heritage story. If some Midwestern family has been handcrafting, deerskin leather guide boots since the 1850s, it’s almost certain that a menswear blogger or magazine editor has done a factory tour.

Apparently, there are still some manufacturers that have been glossed over. At least until recently, Earl’s Apparel has been mostly working as a private label manufacturer and supplier of job-site pants to paint stores around the country. Whispers of them sometimes cropped up on various menswear boards, but they’ve mostly gone unknown to a broader audience.

In the last few years, however, they’ve been getting more attention – leading boutiques in the UK, US and Canada have picked up the label; streetwear sites such as Complex, Highsnobiety, and Hypebeast have done stories. I also bought a pair of their pants last year from Urban Outfitters and absolutely love them. They’re four pocket fatigues made from OG-107 sateen (the same fabric used to make US military pants), cut with a full leg and slight taper. Their anti-fashion sensibility somehow makes them oddly fashionable. Like a lot of basic workwear, they go well with loose flannels layered over white tees, rugged leather jackets, and sweatshirts.

Perhaps the most amazing thing about them is the price. With all the rage these days for domestically produced garments, it’s incredible these only retail for about $65. That’s a lot cheaper than Filson’s made-in-USA fatigues, which go for $100 more. On the other hand, Filson’s are slightly better made. My main gripe with Earl’s Apparel is that the interior of their pants are roughly finished with overlock stitches and the buttonholes could be better. These are true workwear pants, not workwear-inspired items specifically designed for the upscale fashion market. Dickies are cheaper by about half, but they’re made abroad using cotton-blends that often have a slight sheen.

If you’re buying for these for style and not just trying to keep your legs protected from paint splatters, it can be hard to decipher the company’s offerings. First, the parent label is Earl’s Apparel, which was started in 1972 by Earl Beard. The Beard family has their own factory in Crockett, Texas, where they employ a handful of sewers to make their pants and overshirts.

Then there are two sub-labels. Gung Ho is a brand they came up with for the Asian market (they were popular for a second in Japan); Stan Ray is for their domestic sales for anyone who wanted their military-inspired designs. Fun fact: Stan Ray was originally called Stanley until the American tools manufacturer by the same name sent them a cease-and-desist letter. So they changed the name to Stan Ray – after Earl’s youngest son, Stanley Ray Beard – which today makes the brand a lot easier to find via Google.

Technically, Earl’s Apparel is for their painter pants and the other two are for their military designs. Since the company is very accommodating, however, they’ve been happy to produce their pants with any name. So, a store can buy their four-pocket fatigues and ask them to put on a label for Earl’s Apparel, Gung Ho, or Stan Ray. Which is why you see so many of the seemingly same pants online with different names.

With the exception of a few collabs – such as the modified fatigues they made for Urban Outfitters – their pants come in three fits. The 1100 series is their original straight leg; the 1200 series is a slightly more tapered version of that. Then there’s their slimmest fit to date, the 1300, which is a bit closer to what you’d expect from a fashion brand. I prefer the 1100 and 1200 fits. They’re not nearly as full as some photos may lead you to believe, although they’re also not slim. The silhouette plays well for people who are just starting to think about how to incorporate looser, slightly more relaxed silhouettes into their casualwear without going full Yohji Yamamoto. I think they look best slightly cropped, with the hems pinrolled up to your ankles. It gives the looser look some intentionality.

The carpenter and painter pants are the fullest, and perhaps the hardest to wear for style purposes. For something reasonably versatile, I’d stick with their cotton fatigues, which come in solid navy, olive, khaki, and black, as well as the occasional camo pattern. Note, these are NOT vanity sized. You’ll want to size up (so if you regularly wear a size 30, you’ll need a size 32 here). The waist will still be snug at first, although the fabric easily stretches. The waist on the 1100 and 1200 also sits fairly high, while the 1300 is more of a mid-rise. Lastly, they have some military style overshirts, which again are a nice value at $65 or so. Those will run true-to-size.

If you’re looking to check out the brand, start with a store local to you. In the US, you can find Earl’s Apparel and their accompanying labels at Snake Oil Provisions, Independence, and Washington Alley. In Canada, they’re at Uncle Otis, Nouvelle Nouvelle, Nifty Do, Still Life, and Four Horsemen. And finally in the UK, you can see the range at Oi Poloi, The Garbstore, Peggs & Son, Goodhood, and Urban Industry. To be sure, some of the stuff here is the kind of workwear people shunned five years ago for not being slim and fashionable enough, but if you’re up for getting a bit more creative with your casual wardrobe – as well as play with fuller fitting silhouettes – you’d be hard pressed to find a better deal at these prices.

(photos via Independence, Highsnobiety, Son of a Stag, and Snake Oil Provisions)

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All of us at Put This On dig repurposed garments and vintage/one of a kind fabrics, so I was happy to read this recent New York Times piece on Bode (pronounced BOH-dee), a New York line that makes men’s shirts, jackets, and pants from found fabrics. The shapes are basic in a way that I appreciate–work-style shirt-collared jackets, straightforward straight leg trousers, simple button-front shirts.

The distinction is mostly in Bode’s choice of fabrics, which she sources from all over, going beyond the at-this-point-familiar (but still cool) strategy of cutting up thrift store clothes into new shapes, like in Needles’ Rebuild line. Like Rebuild, Bode’s pieces are never factory-line identical, because the source fabrics have their own idiosyncrasies. Some are truly one-offs though, as the fabric quantities are that small. The fabrics are less straight-up references to known menswear quantities like military jackets or Dickies–Bode’s  recent designs have used vinyl cloth intended for outdoor furniture, mattress covers, and century-old quilts. The shirts and jackets seem relatively wearable to me in the same way that other brands with homemade aesthetics can be (like Kapital or Made by Grandma for Mafia)–maybe unsurprisingly one of Bode’s few retailers is United Arrows in Japan, where that look seems popular.

The prices, I have to admit, are in the Needles plus category, so it’s window shopping for me for now. But it’s nice to see someone taking this approach–appreciating unusual, purpose built textiles, applying a Parsons menswear education, and making wearable clothing for men that pushes the envelope a little.

Read more here. Visit Bode.

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Finding the right hair care product is very personal. A lot depends on your hairstyle, hair type, and even the other products you use. If you haven’t settled on a routine that you love, however, let me recommend Kevin Murphy – an Australian company that makes a wide range of sprays, waxes, creams, and almost anything else you’d ever need to make your head look good. For all the brands I’ve tried over the years, no one has been better.

First, a quick primer on hairstyling products. It’s easier to go through these in broad categories, so you know what you might want to buy, whether it’s from Kevin Murphy or somewhere else.

Gels and Hairsprays

Gels and hairsprays are usually a guy’s first hairstyling products (terribly so if you, like me, grew up in the ‘80s and ‘90s). Broadly speaking, these will give you a strong hold and high shine, although things can vary on the market. Gels today can be used for a light hold or as a pre-styling product, while hairsprays are nice as a finishing touch if you want to set things in.

Pomades

If you’re not familiar with the pomades, you’re definitely familiar with the associated hairstyles. Pomades are good for clean, professional looks, such as a hard side part, pompadour, or something slicked back. Use these when you want something that looks crisp and clean. Water based pomades are easier to wash out, while oil based ones can be easier to re-adjust throughout the day (there are also combination pomades that use both oil and water bases for the best of both worlds). Murrays is a popular choice for oil-based pomades, although our own Pete and Dan favor other brands.

Everything Else

Then you have what I’d call “everything else.” These are your waxes, creams, putties, fibers, clays, pastes, etc. I clump these together because, on the market, the terms can often be so fluid. Generally speaking, these are good for slightly messier and more natural hairstyles than what you’d get out of the products mentioned above. When buying something, you’ll want to pay attention to three dimensions:

• Hold: Easy and straightforward. This is how hard the product sets in your hair. Don’t be shy about stronger holds. They can give you more volume and shape, if that’s what you’re after.
• Texture: Some of these products, particularly the thick, grittier pastes, will add more texture to your hair. Good for people like me, who have thick hair, and want to add a bit of definition (otherwise, your hair can look like a helmet).
• Shine: Lastly, there’s shine. You can get a finish that looks as matte or “wet” as you want.

Kevin Murphy makes almost every kind of hairstyling product under the sun, but they’re best at things in the last category – products that will give you a more natural-looking hairstyle. That can either be a low hold with just slightly more control, or it can be a stronger hold for a textured, slightly tussled look. The products I use:

• Free Hold: A coconut scented styling cream that will give you a medium hold. This is the product that first drew me into the line, although I’ve since moved on to thicker, harder pastes. Use Free Hold if you want to have some control over your hair without seeming you use any products.
• Night Rider: A citrus scented paste. Slightly thicker than a cream and will give you a matte, slightly textured hairstyle with a firm hold. I sometimes use this as a pre-styling product. Since it’s water based, not oil based, it’s easier to wash out of your hair.
• Gritty Business: My favorite from the line. Gives a firm, but pliable hold, as well as a ton of texture. Ideal for a slightly messy look. Like all oil-based products, this sticks to your hair, which means it takes a bit of effort to wash out. I’ve learned to embrace the build up, as it just makes it easier to style my hair for the next day. Unfortunately, Gritty Business is being discontinued from the line, but you can still find it here and there if you search.
• Rough Rider: A really hard, matte clay that gives the strongest of holds. I use this sparingly at the end of my routine to just touch up any areas I may need (usually the sides to keep the hair down).

The bad news: Kevin Murphy’s products aren’t as easy to find as, say, American Crew or Baxter. They’re also on the slightly expensive side. If you can find a local salon that carries the tins above, expect to pay about $25 per box. Otherwise, a fair price online is around $30 to $40 (on the upside, they last about three months). You can try the salon locater tool on Kevin Murphy’s website, although I found some of the stores listed aren’t up-to-date.

The other bad news is that, like all hair styling products, it takes a bit of trial and error to figure out what’s right for you. And once you get the product, it takes a bit of experience to learn how to use it. Always emulsify the product as much as you can by rubbing it between your palms, then start at the back of your head and work your way forward (run it through your hair with just your fingers, no comb is necessary). You may want to also try using your products on slightly damp and dry hair to see which outcome you like better. With a bit of practice, you’d be surprised at how much better you can look with the right routine.

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